True, and thanks! I think the test results are the real lynchpin. If we get good results, then a $1,000 science project becomes a life-saving investment. We wouldn't have been able to do this without the AKET funding. But if this truly works out, then it's something that people could pull off, even crowdsource.
Love the crowdsource idea — community developed around a reliable water source sounds like something our Great Rift Valley ancestors would have approved of ❤️
Nice solution and well documented. Probably worth noting to be careful with adding bleach to the water while it's in the barrels - at that dilution it's unlikely to be a problem, but it can degrade certain plastics, and over time may compromise the barrel integrity.
Storage is dependent on location and rainfall frequency. We go 6-11 months without precipitation, so catchment systems have to be scaled well up.
I have a 11K gallon storage for the 3.5K aquaponics since the ratio of 'use is 4:1 through the dry period and I don't want to treat my muni water.
Everything was build incrementally with IBCs and gravity fed to the final aquaponic pump (for the circulation every other hour) to save on costs while gradually adding on.
Couple of tips.
1. use Uniseals instead of bulwark compression fittings
2. standardize pipes to 2 sizes so you can recognize and salvage from other's scrap or be prepared to understand all pipes (helps if you make friends with a plumber/contractor).
3. There is a microbe chemical factory in Nature to match anything coming off your roof, so don't worry. Just treat with RO filters or distill using solar cookers.
4. Paint your system early to prevent UV rot.
5. Cycle your pump on/off or use the "lead and Lag" with 2 pump to keep them cool
My system is over 11 year old and hasn't burnt out in 8 years once I learned these the hard way.
Thanks! I make the artwork in Blender, 3D design program--but I use grease pencil and line art modifiers and hard graphics shaders to give it a 2D look.
Thanks for sharing this information. And it is really timely. I am looking to install a multi barrel drinking water storage system and BOOM... here it is.
For a while growing up, we had to hand-pump all our water from an iffy little well into a cistern. It was a lot of work, pumping enough to run the washing machine! You had to do a little at a time so the well didn’t run dry.
I'm glad it helped! I just updated the post with a couple of tweaks: We're adding a Sawyer .1 micron filter with garden hose thread and a pressure release hose. New images to show that setup. Still pretty simple.
Really creative and impressive results, Jessica. Do you know how the Alexa filters out viruses and bacteria? Is it a layer too small for them to pass? Or is there a layer with something toxic to them? Another question: You said the Alexa can handle 200 gallons. After that, do you have to replace it?
Their design uses a ceramic shell with micropores that block sediment and larger bacteria/viruses. The carbon block uses ionic ab/adsorption to trap the smaller viruses, etc. We're verifying with Tap Score's advanced rainwater test. What I'm reading is that if it fails to detect E. coli along with the other VOCs/heavy metals, that's a very good sign that the filter is working as advertised, including for viruses. Fingers crossed.
What is the size of your catchment area, and what materials is your roof shingled with? I'm reading about bitumen and composition. EPDM, and shingles that are treated with herbicide to prevent moss growth. For me, the objective is food garden irrigation, and figuring out basic filtration to avoid contaminants safely for that purpose. For $1,400 Canadian, I could buy a lot of potable water without having to invest in an elaborate capture setup with multiple barrels.
My next calculation is to project potential capture off of an 800 square foot roof, and compare that to just setting up some non-shingled surfaces and diverting that into barrels. It's like the solar placement concept: could I just stage a rack of panels on the ground, for easier maintenance and to avoid the cost and hassle of roof mounting them?
I looked this up and what I'm seeing is that only a severely aged and degraded roof would shed fiberglass, and you would see clear signs. The .2 micron filtration in the gravity system is the final failsafe by design. As discussed, this is for emergency purposes and we're doing extensive lab testing on the water. I'll be posting the full results.
To be clear, we're talking about drinking water filtered as thoroughly as possible for these risks vs. dying of thirst within 72 hours. If nothing else, you convinced me to search for a .1 micron inline filter and make a tweak to the setup to adjust for the backpressure.
Incredible work, Jessica!
Not everyone has $1k disposable, but many could make that a priority now that you’ve provided a blueprint.
You’re not just giving great advice: you’re saving lives!
🙏
True, and thanks! I think the test results are the real lynchpin. If we get good results, then a $1,000 science project becomes a life-saving investment. We wouldn't have been able to do this without the AKET funding. But if this truly works out, then it's something that people could pull off, even crowdsource.
Love the crowdsource idea — community developed around a reliable water source sounds like something our Great Rift Valley ancestors would have approved of ❤️
Nice solution and well documented. Probably worth noting to be careful with adding bleach to the water while it's in the barrels - at that dilution it's unlikely to be a problem, but it can degrade certain plastics, and over time may compromise the barrel integrity.
Storage is dependent on location and rainfall frequency. We go 6-11 months without precipitation, so catchment systems have to be scaled well up.
I have a 11K gallon storage for the 3.5K aquaponics since the ratio of 'use is 4:1 through the dry period and I don't want to treat my muni water.
Everything was build incrementally with IBCs and gravity fed to the final aquaponic pump (for the circulation every other hour) to save on costs while gradually adding on.
Couple of tips.
1. use Uniseals instead of bulwark compression fittings
2. standardize pipes to 2 sizes so you can recognize and salvage from other's scrap or be prepared to understand all pipes (helps if you make friends with a plumber/contractor).
3. There is a microbe chemical factory in Nature to match anything coming off your roof, so don't worry. Just treat with RO filters or distill using solar cookers.
4. Paint your system early to prevent UV rot.
5. Cycle your pump on/off or use the "lead and Lag" with 2 pump to keep them cool
My system is over 11 year old and hasn't burnt out in 8 years once I learned these the hard way.
And barrels are just a 'gateway' drug.
Side issue - do you do the artwork for your essays? It's excellent.
Thanks! I make the artwork in Blender, 3D design program--but I use grease pencil and line art modifiers and hard graphics shaders to give it a 2D look.
Thanks for sharing this information. And it is really timely. I am looking to install a multi barrel drinking water storage system and BOOM... here it is.
Hope it helps! For us, this system makes the most sense.
For a while growing up, we had to hand-pump all our water from an iffy little well into a cistern. It was a lot of work, pumping enough to run the washing machine! You had to do a little at a time so the well didn’t run dry.
THIS. IS. WONDERFUL, Thx for such an explicit and clear description of you system and its components.
I'm glad it helped! I just updated the post with a couple of tweaks: We're adding a Sawyer .1 micron filter with garden hose thread and a pressure release hose. New images to show that setup. Still pretty simple.
Really creative and impressive results, Jessica. Do you know how the Alexa filters out viruses and bacteria? Is it a layer too small for them to pass? Or is there a layer with something toxic to them? Another question: You said the Alexa can handle 200 gallons. After that, do you have to replace it?
Their design uses a ceramic shell with micropores that block sediment and larger bacteria/viruses. The carbon block uses ionic ab/adsorption to trap the smaller viruses, etc. We're verifying with Tap Score's advanced rainwater test. What I'm reading is that if it fails to detect E. coli along with the other VOCs/heavy metals, that's a very good sign that the filter is working as advertised, including for viruses. Fingers crossed.
What is the size of your catchment area, and what materials is your roof shingled with? I'm reading about bitumen and composition. EPDM, and shingles that are treated with herbicide to prevent moss growth. For me, the objective is food garden irrigation, and figuring out basic filtration to avoid contaminants safely for that purpose. For $1,400 Canadian, I could buy a lot of potable water without having to invest in an elaborate capture setup with multiple barrels.
My next calculation is to project potential capture off of an 800 square foot roof, and compare that to just setting up some non-shingled surfaces and diverting that into barrels. It's like the solar placement concept: could I just stage a rack of panels on the ground, for easier maintenance and to avoid the cost and hassle of roof mounting them?
Great! Any plans to install a metal roof? Much more fire resistant.
Roofing shingles have fiberglass in them. Do not drink water from your roof. The particles can be very small.
I looked this up and what I'm seeing is that only a severely aged and degraded roof would shed fiberglass, and you would see clear signs. The .2 micron filtration in the gravity system is the final failsafe by design. As discussed, this is for emergency purposes and we're doing extensive lab testing on the water. I'll be posting the full results.
I was a roofer for 30 years. There is fiberglass on the shingles when they are new. The particles can be as small as asbestos particles.
To be clear, we're talking about drinking water filtered as thoroughly as possible for these risks vs. dying of thirst within 72 hours. If nothing else, you convinced me to search for a .1 micron inline filter and make a tweak to the setup to adjust for the backpressure.